Betong, Thailand

Day 1- 14th July 09 (Tuesday)
Today, we traveled from Kuala Lumpur to Betong, Thailand. There were seven of us traveling in two cars. When we reached the southern end of Ipoh, we were pleased to discover a new road on the North-South Highway, that enabled us to drive straight through without having to pass through any toll gates as before. We drove up the winding and scenic mountain route until we came to a rest area next to the Perak river crossing. After having a light meal, we continued on our journey and exited at the Kuala Kangsar interchange and followed road signs towards Gerik. After the Kuala Kangsar toll, the journey was a pleasant, straight and continuous drive along a toll-free highway to Gerik, passing many small villages, the largest being the town of Lenggong. At Gerik town centre, after passing the traffic light, we stopped by at a Shell petrol station.

Following the signage towards Betong, we reached the northern border town of Pengkalan Hulu in Perak, where the Malaysian border checkpoint is located. We had our passports checked at the drive-through immigration counter before proceeding to the Thai checkpoint to do the same. Here, we had to park our cars and walk to the immigration complex where we had our embarkation forms filled by helpers for a fee of RM2 per person, a necessary procedure while going through immigration. With the embarkation forms, we then had to queue to have our passports stamped.

Next up, car entry permits were needed before we could be allowed to drive into Thailand. At the vehicle declaration office, we produced our car registration cards (bearing the driver’s name as shown on his/her passport), driver’s license and a processing fee of RM3 per car. Alternatively, proof of identity can also be provided by presenting the vehicle’s insurance note containing the nominated driver’s name. After having our vehicle particulars computerized, the details were then printed out on a declaration form (also known as a ‘vehicle temporary import permit’). It was then signed and stamped, with a copy given to us. A note of caution; the copy of this form must be kept and later returned to the authorities when exiting Thailand to re-enter Malaysia. Failure to do so would result in a guaranteed fine of 2,100,000 baht (approximately RM200,000).

The journey from KL to Thai border takes about 5 ½ hours driving. Betong is only a mere 10 minutes drive from the border. It is like a miniature version of Hatyai, thriving on weekend crowds from Malaysia. Betong is to Perakians, as Hatyai is to the Kedahans and Sungai Golok is to the Kelantanese. Exchanging Ringgit to Thai Baht is not necessary, as most, if not all, shops, hotels, vendors, massage services accept payment in Ringgit, for a rate of RM1 to 10 baht. Language is no barrier as well since most locals speak in Cantonese and Malay.

Upon entering Betong town, we had a late lunch consisting of fried rice, tomyam and noodles at one of the shops. Next, we proceeded to pass through the Betong Mongkullit tunnel situated in town area with the majestic Betong Museum pagoda-like building on top the hill. We exited the very short tunnel and were greeted by two giant sculptures of chickens. Thailand is famous for its “pak cham kai” using this special breed of tailless chicken with small wings. Next to these sculptures is the Garden View Betong Hotel, where we stayed for 2 nights at a rate of RM75 per night for a twin bedroom. After checking in, we roamed the streets of Betong and ate durians by the road side opposite the central market. We then drove up to the Municipal Park, located above the tunnel we passed through earlier.

Returning to the hotel, we had a good rest till dinner time. For dinner, we ordered the famous “pak cham kai” as well as sweet and sour fish, vegetables, petai and soups. We went to bed early that night, in preparation for the coming day’s activities.

Day 2 – 15th July 09 Betong
For breakfast, we ate at a coffee shop with a big mailbox, located at the Betong Clock Tower intersection in the town center. This mailbox was built in 1924 by Mr. Sa-Nguan Jirajinda, the former head of Betong Post and Telegraph Office and the Lord Mayor of Betong. Some ordered porridge and I ordered a plate of “kon lou mee”. The noodles was really good because the texture was firm and springy and its tasty accompanying sauce was not oily at all. I ended up ordering another plate.

Next to this coffee shop, I believe, was the tourist information center. I had wanted to get hold of a map of Betong quite badly but sadly, the office was still closed and we could not wait for it to open as we have more places to visit. I was unable to get a map at our hotel either, nor were there any brochures of tourist attractions to be found. Betong is unlike places such as Phuket where tourist brochures are plentiful.

Heading north a short distance away, but still in the Betong town, we stopped at a traffic junction to photograph the biggest mailbox in Thailand, very much bigger then the one at the clock tower earlier. The new mailbox is 9 meters tall and is located at the City Convention Hall.

After heading north for 4 km, we turned left to our next destination, the Winter Flower Farm. Driving through rubber plantations and up a mountain on a gradually narrowing road, we arrived at the farm.

We visited a few scenic spots, took photographs and rested at a cool area on the hill. Driving down the road we came up earlier, we next drove to the Friendship Village via Piyamit Tunnel, about 15 km from the Betong town. This area is the village of the Thai Development Participants and was once the base where the Communist Party of Malaya (CPM) leader Chin Peng and his comrades used to live. Here, they took shelter from air attacks by hiding in tunnels they constructed in the lush jungle setting. The Piyamit Tunnel was built in 3 months in 1976.

We had another round of durians at a rest area. For an entry fee of RM5, four of us wanted to explore the tunnel while the rest decided to wait for us. To get to the tunnel, we had to climb a long flight of well-paved stairs. Half way, two in our group decided that the trip was too tiring and decided to turn back. So, my wife and I continued onwards till we reached a hut where the tunnel entrance was.

A former communist, who is now in his 70’s, briefed us on the site set-up, showing us the basic cooking facilities at the camp and how food was prepared by 4 cooks for 100 of their comrades. He later led us down the tunnel on route 4. There are 9 tunnels in total with multiple exits. The tunnels were well ventilated and nicely lit. The walls of the tunnels have been enlarged and rendered with concrete for tourism purposes, unlike the original walls that were made only of earth. We did not need to bend down lower to walk since the height of the tunnel was enough to allow one to walk normally.

Inside the tunnels are little areas for rest, food storage, rooms, as well a ventilation hole that was used to ferry goods from the surface. In the event of an air raid, the tunnel can accommodate up to 100 comrades. Exiting from route 4 required us to climb a few steps to get to the outside. On the open space outside, there was a museum exhibiting paraphernalia used by the Communists. Speaking in Hokkien, the guide briefed us on the history during the Communist Insurgency of the 50’s, and the struggles they fought for, and ultimately lost. We returned to the group who were waiting for us and had lunch at the entrance of the foothill.

After lunch, we drove back the way we came and stopped at the Betong Hot Spring, located beside the main road. The springs have been built into a pool structure, with a walkway to the centre from where the springs can be seen. At the hottest spot, quail and chicken eggs packed into plastic bags were seen dangling on specially constructed rails to allow them to be cooked. Our friends joined some local schoolgirls and dipped their feet into the warm pool. It is believed that the hot spring can cure muscular pains and minor skin irritations. We had coconut drinks next before returning to Betong.

We did our last minute shopping next to the Central Market and returned to our hotel for rest. A few in our group went out again for leg massages while I drove up the Betong Municipality Park for some photography. This hilltop overlooks the town of Betong. The park consisted of a flower garden, a sports ground, a stadium with running tracks and a football field, a swimming pool and a playground. In addition to that, it also housed the Betong Museum which had a spectacular pagoda roof top. There were a group of people here doing aerobic exercises, led by an instructor. I returned to the hotel and met up with the rest before going out for a late dinner.

Day 3- 16th July 09 Betong, Gerik, Belum Rainforest Resort.
We checked out of the hotel and went for some dim sum in a shop located opposite the coffee shop with the large mailbox. However, the dim sum was not enjoyable because it was not hot enough, so we walked across the road to continue our breakfast. I had my third round of "kon lou mee" from the same noodle vendor.

After breakfast, we drove to the Thai checkpoint to have our passports validated at a fee of RM2 per person. We returned our ‘temporary import permits’ to the Thai immigration officer and exited to the Malaysian checkpoint. Welcoming us home was a smiling Malaysian immigration officer, who stamped our passports. We then drove onwards to Gerik. Just before reaching Gerik town, on seeing the Belum Rainforest Resort signage, we decided to turn left and drove for another 40 km before reaching a bridge that crosses Temenggor Lake to Banding Island.

The Belum Rainforest Resort is located on Pulau Banding and was recently opened by the Sultan of Perak Sultan Azlan Shah. Malaysian business conglomerate, the Emkay Group, took over the former Banding Island Resort last August and rebuilt it at a cost of RM35 million. The resort is designed by the same designer who created the exclusive Four Seasons Resort Langkawi. We were told that we had just missed the flowering of Rafflesia, one of the flora highlights of the park, by 2 days. Because of that, we decided not to take the boat ride which would have cost RM50 per person, and headed homeward for KL. Before that, we had lunch in Gerik. While waiting for food to be served, I walked towards the main traffic junction in town and photographed a sculpture of a reindeer horn. Along the way home, we stopped at a roadside farm for some dragon fruits and arrived home in KL at around 7 pm. Total journey travelled 950km